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France|CÉLINE, DIOR, GIVENCHY ... Looking back at LVMH’s Designer Replacements

Jul 9, 2018.Paris, FR
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The rainy season has begun and we have another half to go this year. Looking back on the first half, many important events have occurred that I’d like to address. This year a lot of dust had been kicked up in the fashion industry most notably with LVMH’s continuing designer replacements since last year. The following shows a summary of past personnel shifts:

Hedi Slimane's inauguration at CÉLINE became the beginning of a major shift in personnel change. He served as Creative Director at Dior Homme from 2000 to 2007 and left LVMH at one point. From the pre-spring of 2013 to 2016-17 fall and winter, he worked as Creative Director of SAINT LAURENT and his charismatic charm earned a fair amount of popularity.
Starting at CÉLINE’s spring and summer 2019 of womenswear and menswear, he dabbled in his first directed haute couture furthermore overseeing goods that ranged to fragrances. Given the attention, the change at the maison will be interesting to see, similarly as Philo had did when she reinvented the brand.

Chloé’s previous Creative Director Clare Waight Keller now positioned at GIVENCHY was a move done right. She is the first female to become a Maison designer to oversee the Haute couture, womenswear, men's ready-to-wear, and accessories.
Since the classic & elegant style was originally the brand’s signature, the collection of tribal accents developed so far by Ricardo may have brought new inspiration to the brand, however with Clare’s arrival, it seemed that GIVENCHY’s original associations had returned. The dress worn by Meghan at the royal wedding shortly after taking the creative reins , became an associated brand to be reckoned with.

It is not exaggeration to say that Virgil Abloh’s position at Louis Vuitton menswear is the topic of the year. It began when in 2006, Kanye West and Virgil worked as interns at FENDI under then chairman and CEO Michael Burke (now at Louis Vuitton) taking notice of the two students.
This personnel affair would be a symbol of the future fashion industry that can be received as an intense message to LVMH's black bourgeoisie. In the United States, it’s said that Blacks and Hispanics will be the majority of the population in ten years which luxury brands can’t ignore. There is a similar atmosphere to the current rise of black power in the latter half of the 1980s when Patrick Kelly (35) and Willi Smith (39) played an active part in the fashion scene.

The other day the debut collection of Kim Jones' s DIOR highlight was the collaborative debut with jewelry designer, Yoon Ahn of AMBUSH. As the first asian designer to have been selected for a Maison, it truly marked a turning point. Even with this year's LVMH Prize, designer Masayuki Ino of DOUBLET was awarded and Hiroshi Fujiwara was selected as a collaboration partner with Moncler. We’re anticipating for more Asian talents to make a breakthrough in the luxury scene.

Under Haider Ackermann, BERLUTI will only have until three seasons left with the designer. As well as GIVENCHY, if you consider the style of the brand, replacing Kris Van Assche would be a reasonable choice.

Other than the LVMH designer transferring, Riccardo Tisci for BURBERRY also became the essence of popular topic. Current CEO, Marco Gobbetti formed tag team with Ricardo at GIVENCHY was a commercial success and intends to reposition the roots of Burberry’s brand image. Tisci known for his dark subversiveness and sexuality aesthetics is a must-see for what changes will be brought about besides in transforming it’s well overdue checks and trenches.

In the first half of this year, there were also giant losses in the fashion industry. Many people mourned for the death of GIVENCHY’s founding designer, Hubert de Givenchy (91) who passed on March 10th 2018. It came as a surprise that former haute couture designer, Philippe Venet (89) was his longtime partner that he had rarely spoken of.
On May 5th, tragedy struck when founder and designer of KATE SPADE NEW YORK, Kate Spade (55) passed away. There are still many speculations to the causes of her suicide yet to be resolved. Although Givenchy and Kate are similar in the fact that they sold their brand names, it seems that the conclusions were not a happy ending.

Exactly how long will these radical designer appointments continue as if moving like migratory birds every season? The day these transitions have come to a halt will be the day we'll receive more refreshing news from the industry.

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